sourcing · 5 min read

How fabric agent fees work and what is fair

There are three ways an agent gets paid, and only one of them is transparent. Knowing which model you are in explains why two quotes for the same fabric differ.

By Weft Bridge · Reviewed by our Guangzhou sourcing team · Updated 2026-11

The three models

Model	How it works	Typical range	Transparency
Commission	A percentage on the invoice, shown separately	3–10%	High
Markup	A margin inside the unit price	5–15%	Low
Retainer	A fixed monthly fee plus a smaller commission	$500–2,000/month	High

What a good agent includes

Mill shortlisting and price comparison, not just one quote.
Lab dip and sample follow-up, with photos and dates.
Inline checks and pre-shipment inspection.
Export documents and shipping coordination.
A named person who answers when something goes wrong.

Red flags

A commission on top of an already marked-up price — double-dipping.
Refusing to show the mill invoice when the model is commission.
Kickbacks from the mill, which usually means you are not getting the best price.
A fee that changes after the order is placed.

FAQ

Is a 10% commission too much?

For full service including inspection and shipping, no. For forwarding emails to a mill, yes.

Should I pay a retainer?

Only if you have ongoing volume and want priority. For a first order, commission or markup is simpler.