compliance · 6 min read
OEKO-TEX, GRS, GOTS: which certificate do you need
Certificates are claimed far more often than they are verified. Each one answers a different question, and none of them means “good factory” — they mean a specific claim has been tested or audited.
By Weft Bridge · Reviewed by our Guangzhou sourcing team · Updated 2026-11
What each one covers
| Certificate | Answers | Applies to | Who holds it |
|---|---|---|---|
| OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100 | Is the finished article free of harmful substances? | Yarn, fabric, accessories | The supplier, tested per article |
| GRS | Is the recycled content verified and traced? | Recycled polyester, nylon, cotton | The processor, with a scope certificate |
| GOTS | Is the organic cotton genuine and processed to standard? | Organic fibre through finished product | Each stage of the chain |
| BCI | Is the cotton sourced through the Better Cotton programme? | Cotton lint | Mass balance, not physical segregation |
The one distinction that matters
OEKO-TEX is about what is in the fabric. GRS and GOTS are about where the fibre came from and how it was processed. A fabric can be OEKO-TEX certified and contain no recycled content, or GRS certified and still fail a harmful-substances test.
BCI is a mass-balance scheme: it supports better cotton farming, but it does not mean the cotton in your specific roll came from a BCI farm.
How to verify
- Ask for the certificate number, the holder name and the validity date.
- Check the number in the issuing body’s public database, not on the supplier’s PDF.
- Confirm the certificate covers the article you are buying, not a different product.
- For GRS, ask for the transaction certificate that links your order to the certified material.
FAQ
Does OEKO-TEX mean the fabric is organic?
No. It tests for harmful substances. Organic content is a different claim, covered by GOTS or a similar standard.
Can a trading company hold these certificates?
Usually the mill or processor holds them. A trader can show them, but the certificate holder name should match the actual producer.
Is certification worth the cost?
If your market or your customer requires it, it is not optional. If not, spend the money on inspection instead.
Related
- Cotton & Cotton Blends we source
- Linen & Linen Blends we source
- Knitted Fabrics we source
- How to verify a Chinese fabric supplier
- The 4-point fabric inspection system
- OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100: what it certifies and what it does not
- GRS certification: what it proves and how to check it
- How to choose fabric weight (GSM) for your product