quality · 7 min read
The 4-point fabric inspection system
“We inspect every roll” means nothing without a scoring system. The 4-point system turns a subjective argument about quality into a number both sides can check.
By Weft Bridge · Reviewed by our Guangzhou sourcing team · Updated 2026-11
How the scoring works
A defect is scored by its length, up to a maximum of 4 points per defect. The inspector works along the fabric, records each defect, and totals the points for the roll.
| Defect length | Points |
|---|---|
| Up to 3 inches (7.5 cm) | 1 |
| 3 to 6 inches (7.5–15 cm) | 2 |
| 6 to 9 inches (15–23 cm) | 3 |
| Over 9 inches (23 cm) | 4 |
Turning points into an acceptance rule
Points are normalised by area so that a long roll is not penalised for being long. The usual measure is points per 100 square yards. A common first-quality threshold is 20 points per 100 square yards, but the number is a commercial agreement, not a law — put it in the purchase order.
AQL 2.5 is a separate sampling rule. It tells you how many rolls or metres to inspect for a given lot size, and how many defectives are allowed before the lot fails. It does not define what a defect is; the 4-point system does that.
The defects that actually cost you money
- Holes and broken picks — usually a machine stop, often clustered.
- Shade bands and side-to-side shading — a dyeing problem, and uncuttable.
- Skew and bow — the pattern or stripe runs off grain; a garment-cutting problem.
- Contamination — foreign fibres that show after dyeing.
- Width variation — matters most for panel cutting and for tubular knits.
How to make it enforceable
- Write the standard, the sample size and the threshold into the PO.
- Require photos of each major defect with the roll number.
- Inspect before shipment, not after arrival.
- Agree the remedy in advance: replacement, credit note, or price adjustment.
FAQ
Is AQL 2.5 the same as 4-point?
No. AQL defines how much you inspect and how many failures you accept. The 4-point system defines how a defect is scored.
Who should inspect?
Someone independent of the mill, or your own agent. A mill inspecting its own fabric is a self-assessment.
What if the lot fails?
Typically the mill re-inspects, replaces the defective rolls, or offers a credit. Agree this before production, when you still have leverage.
Related
More in Quality and inspection →
- Cotton & Cotton Blends we source
- Linen & Linen Blends we source
- Knitted Fabrics we source
- How to request fabric samples
- What a lab dip is and why it takes a week
- Common fabric defects and which ones you can live with
- AQL sampling for fabric: how many rolls to inspect
- How to choose fabric weight (GSM) for your product