selection · 5 min read
Sourcing linen shirts from China: what to specify
A linen shirt is a simple garment with an unforgiving fabric. Most problems appear after the first wash, which is exactly when you cannot fix them.
By Weft Bridge · Reviewed by our Guangzhou sourcing team · Updated 2026-11
The fabric brief
| Spec | Typical choice | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Weight | 120–160 gsm | Light enough to drape, heavy enough to be opaque |
| Composition | 100% linen or 55/45 linen-cotton | Blend reduces cost and creasing |
| Finish | Garment wash or pre-shrunk | Controls shrinkage before cutting |
| Width | 140–150 cm | Standard for shirting markers |
| MOQ | 300–800 m per colour | Depends on the mill and the shade |
What fails after the first wash
- Shrinkage beyond the spec, changing the fit by a size.
- Colour loss or bleeding onto the collar lining.
- Seam puckering where the fabric was not pre-shrunk before cutting.
- Slub variation that looks like a defect on a plain shirt.
What to write in the PO
- Shrinkage limit after three washes, with the test method.
- Colour fastness to washing and light.
- Slub reference photo and tolerance.
- Whether the fabric is washed before cutting.
FAQ
Is linen-cotton easier to source?
Usually yes — more mills run it, and it shrinks and creases less than pure linen.
Should the fabric be washed before cutting?
For a garment-washed shirt, the fabric is usually washed as part of the garment process. Confirm the sequence with the factory.