fiber · 7 min read

Linen vs cotton: which one for your summer range

Both are natural cellulosic fibres, and both are sold as “breathable”. They behave very differently in production. Linen gives you the texture and the drape; cotton gives you predictability and price. Most summer ranges end up using both.

By Weft Bridge · Reviewed by our Guangzhou sourcing team · Updated 2026-11

Side by side

	Linen	Cotton
Fibre source	Flax plant stem	Cotton boll
Hand feel	Dry, cool, slightly rough, slubs	Soft, smooth, uniform
Breathability	Excellent; wicks and dries fast	Good
Wrinkle	Creases readily — part of the look	Creases, but less
Strength	Stronger wet than dry	Stronger dry; weakens when wet
Shrinkage	3–10% unless pre-washed	2–5% typical
Relative cost	Higher	Lower
Dyeing	Harder to get deep, level shades	Easier and more repeatable

Why linen costs more

Flax growing and retting is seasonal and labour-heavy, and the fibre yield per hectare is lower than cotton. Spinning linen is also harder: the fibres are long and stiff, and slubs are inherent, not a defect. Deep shades require more dye and more careful control, which is why dark linen often costs noticeably more than natural or light shades.

If a quote for “100% linen” is close to cotton pricing, ask what the composition actually is. Linen-cotton blends are common and are often quoted loosely.

The blend most buyers end up with

A 55/45 linen-cotton blend is the usual compromise: it keeps most of the linen texture, reduces the wrinkle and the cost, and shrinks less than pure linen. It is easier to dye level, which matters if you need several colours in one order.

What to specify before you order

Washed or greige? Washed linen has already taken most of its shrinkage.
A shrinkage figure and the test method, in the purchase order.
A slub tolerance: how much irregularity is acceptable, with a photo reference.
A shade standard: a physical approved swatch, not a Pantone number alone.
Care instructions that match the actual finish — machine wash claims on unwashed linen are a returns risk.

FAQ

Does linen shrink every wash?

Most of the shrinkage happens in the first wash. If the mill pre-washes, the residual shrinkage should be small — ask for the number rather than assuming.

Is linen-cotton as breathable as pure linen?

Slightly less, but close enough for most summer garments. It is noticeably softer and cheaper.

Why do dark linen shades cost more?

More dye, longer dye cycles and a higher risk of shade variation. The mill prices that risk in.