quality · 5 min read

AQL sampling for fabric: how many rolls to inspect

AQL is a sampling rule, not a quality standard. It tells you how much to inspect and how many failures you can accept — which is a different question from what counts as a defect.

By Weft Bridge · Reviewed by our Guangzhou sourcing team · Updated 2026-11

What the number means

AQL 2.5 means that lots with 2.5% defective units or fewer should be accepted most of the time. It is a producer-protective level, widely used for garments and fabric.

The inspection level (I, II, III) decides the sample size. Level II is the default for most consumer goods; level III inspects more and is used where the risk is higher.

From lot size to sample size

Lot size (rolls)	Sample size at level II	Accept	Reject
2–8	2	0	1
9–15	3	0	1
16–25	5	0	1
26–50	8	1	2
51–90	13	1	2
91–150	20	2	3

Where AQL stops and the 4-point system starts

AQL decides how many rolls to open. The 4-point system decides how to score what you find inside. Use them together: sample the rolls by AQL, score the defects by 4-point, and compare the points per 100 square yards with the threshold in the PO.

A lot can pass AQL on the number of defective rolls and still fail on points if the defects are concentrated and large.

The mistakes that make inspection useless

Inspecting after the goods are loaded.
Letting the mill choose the rolls to inspect.
Recording defects without photos or roll numbers.
Using an AQL level that was never written into the PO.

FAQ

Is AQL 2.5 standard for fabric?

It is common, but the level is a commercial agreement. Write it into the PO along with the 4-point threshold.

Should I inspect 100%?

For a first order or a high-value lot, sometimes. Full inspection costs more but catches shade and width problems that sampling can miss.

Who should do the inspection?

Someone independent of the mill. A mill inspecting its own fabric is a self-assessment.