quality · 5 min read
Pilling: why it happens and how to test for it
Pilling is the small balls of fibre that form where the fabric rubs. It is not a sign of poor washing — it is decided by the yarn and the structure, before the garment is cut.
By Weft Bridge · Reviewed by our Guangzhou sourcing team · Updated 2026-11
What causes it
- Short fibres working loose from the yarn, which is why carded pills more than combed.
- Low twist: a loosely twisted yarn sheds fibre more easily.
- Loose or brushed structures: fleece and brushed knits pill more than a compact jersey.
- Abrasion in wear — underarm, cuffs, bag straps.
How it is tested
The common methods are Martindale, the pilling box and random tumble. A sample is abraded for a set number of cycles, then compared with a photographic scale and rated from 1 (heavy pilling) to 5 (none).
A rating of 3–4 is a common retail minimum for knitwear. What matters is that the method, cycle count and minimum rating are written into the purchase order.
How to reduce it
- Specify combed yarn for visible surfaces.
- Increase twist, or choose a tighter structure.
- Ask for an anti-pilling finish, and check it survives washing.
- Avoid very soft, loosely knitted fabrics for high-abrasion areas.
FAQ
Does washing cause pilling?
It accelerates it, but the cause is the yarn. A fabric that pills in wear will pill in the wash too.
Can pilling be removed?
A fabric shaver removes the visible balls, but the fibres will come back. It is a symptom, not a fix.