process · 6 min read

Fabric printing methods: screen, rotary, digital and sublimation

Printing cost is driven by setup, not by ink. That single fact explains why the same artwork is cheap at 5,000 metres and impossible at 300.

By Weft Bridge · Reviewed by our Guangzhou sourcing team · Updated 2026-11

The four routes

Method	How it works	Best at	Setup
Flat screen	One screen per colour, printed panel by panel	Bold graphics, small-medium runs	Low per colour, slow
Rotary screen	Cylindrical screens, continuous fabric	High volume, repeats	High per colour, very fast
Digital direct	Inkjet directly onto fabric	Small runs, many colours, photos	None, higher ink cost
Sublimation	Printed paper, heat-transferred	Polyester only, sportswear	Low, no hand feel

Where the money goes

Screen printing charges per colour per screen. A four-colour design needs four screens, so the setup is fixed no matter how many metres you run. At 5,000 metres it disappears into the unit price; at 300 metres it dominates.

Digital has no screen cost, but the ink is expensive and the speed is lower. It wins below roughly 1,000–2,000 metres, or when the design has more than six colours.

What changes the hand feel

Pigment print sits on the surface and can stiffen the fabric.
Reactive print bonds to the fibre and stays soft.
Discharge print removes dye rather than adding it — soft, but limited to certain ground colours.
Sublimation leaves no hand feel at all, but only works on polyester.

What to send with the artwork

Vector files, with spot colours named.
The repeat size and the placement on the fabric.
The Pantone references and the acceptable tolerance.
The fabric base you are printing on — the same ink behaves differently on cotton and polyester.

FAQ

Why is my 300-metre print order so expensive?

Screen setup is charged per colour regardless of volume. At small quantities, digital is usually cheaper.

Can I print on any fabric?

No. Ink chemistry is matched to fibre: reactive for cellulose, disperse for polyester, pigment for most. Ask before you design.