process · 5 min read

Reactive vs pigment dye: colour, fastness and cost

Reactive and pigment are not interchangeable. One bonds to the fibre, the other sits on it with a binder, and the difference shows up in brightness, rubbing fastness and how the fabric ages.

By Weft Bridge · Reviewed by our Guangzhou sourcing team · Updated 2026-11

How they differ

	Reactive	Pigment
Bond	Chemically reacts with the fibre	Held on the surface by a binder
Colour depth	Bright, deep, wide gamut	More muted; strong for pastels and vintage looks
Rubbing fastness	Good	Can be weaker, especially on dark shades
Hand feel	Soft, natural	Can stiffen with binder
Cost	Higher chemical and water use	Cheaper
Typical use	Mainstream apparel, good wash fastness	Garment dye, denim looks, casual wear

Why pigment is used on purpose

Pigment dyeing produces the faded, worn-in look that takes effort to fake with reactive dyes. It is also the standard route for garment dyeing, where the finished piece is dyed rather than the fabric.

The trade-off is fastness. On dark shades, pigment can crock — rub off onto light surfaces — so it needs testing before it goes into a light-coloured lining or a white bag.

What to specify

The dye class, not just the colour.
Colour fastness to washing, rubbing and light, with the test method.
Whether the fabric or the garment is dyed.
The acceptable shade tolerance and the light source for approval.

FAQ

Does pigment dye fade?

It can, and on some garments that is the intended effect. Specify the fastness rating if fading is not acceptable.

Can reactive dye match any Pantone?

Most, but very bright or neon shades may need a different chemistry. Ask the mill before you promise a colour.