fiber · 5 min read

Cotton count explained: 20s, 30s, 40s and 60s

A 40s cotton is not better than a 20s cotton. It is finer, which changes strength, hand feel and price — and whether it suits the garment at all.

By Weft Bridge · Reviewed by our Guangzhou sourcing team · Updated 2026-11

What the number means

The count (Ne) is the number of 840-yard hanks in one pound of yarn. Higher number means finer yarn, so 40s is finer than 20s and 60s is finer still.

Finer yarn needs longer, better fibres and more processing, which is why the price steps up quickly above 40s. It also produces a lighter, smoother fabric at the same construction.

Where each count belongs

Count	Character	Typical use
20s	Coarse, strong, textured	Denim, canvas, heavy jersey
30s	Mid-weight, durable	Everyday tees, workwear
40s	Fine, smooth	Fine jersey, poplin shirting
60s+	Very fine, soft, more fragile	Premium shirting, lightweight voile

Count is not thread count

Thread count is the number of threads per square inch in a woven fabric. Count is a property of the yarn. A high thread count built from coarse yarn is not the same as a fine yarn fabric, and some suppliers quote thread count on greige goods to inflate the number.

Ask for the yarn count and the construction separately, and for thread count on the finished fabric if it matters.

FAQ

Is 40s better than 20s?

Not better, finer. For a heavy tee or denim, 20s is the right choice.

What does 40s/2 mean?

Two 40s yarns plied together. Plying improves strength and evenness without changing the fibre.