fiber · 5 min read

Viscose vs modal vs lyocell: what changes in the fabric

All three are made from wood pulp and all three are sold as “soft, breathable, drapey”. They behave differently wet, shrink differently, and cost differently.

By Weft Bridge · Reviewed by our Guangzhou sourcing team · Updated 2026-11

The difference in one table

	Viscose	Modal	Lyocell
Process	Xanthate, CS2	Modified viscose	NMMO solvent, closed loop
Wet strength	Low — weak when wet	Better	Good
Shrinkage	High (5–8%)	Moderate	Lower, more stable
Hand feel	Soft, fluid	Softer, smoother	Smooth, cool, strong
Cost	Lowest	Mid	Highest

What that means in production

Viscose is the cheapest way to get drape, and the most likely to shrink and distort. It needs careful washing instructions and a generous seam allowance.

Modal is a better-behaved viscose: stronger wet, less shrink, softer. It costs more but reduces the risk of a garment that changes size after the first wash.

Lyocell is the strongest wet and the most dimensionally stable, with a characteristic cool hand. It is also the most expensive, and it can fibrillate — surface fuzz after abrasion — unless the mill applies an enzyme treatment.

What to specify

The exact fibre, not “regenerated cellulose”.
Shrinkage after the finishing, with the test method.
Wet strength if the garment will be washed frequently.
For lyocell, whether an anti-fibrillation finish has been applied.

FAQ

Is lyocell the same as Tencel?

Tencel is a brand of lyocell (and modal). The fibre generic is lyocell.

Can viscose be machine washed?

Often, but check the shrinkage and the care label. Some viscose needs hand wash or dry clean.